Moving with Pets

IDEALLY make arrangements for your pet/pets to stay with a friend, relative or neighbour. Make sure this is someone that they feel comfortable with during the move, as they may be upset by strange people coming into their house to do the removal. They will also be safer, if they stay with you in the house, there is a chance they may be able to escape as doors are likely to be left open. You will also be able to concentrate on the stressful business of moving house without the added worry of looking after your dog or cat. If you do not have any friends or family that can look after him then consider booking him into a boarding kennel for the night.

Cats & Dogs become very attached to their own familiar territory, so you will need to give them extra care and attention before and during the removal.

Have a tag made with your name, new phone number (and mobile phone number if possible) so that it is ready to put onto his/her collar for the day of the move. If they escape during the move or immediately after, this will increase their chances of getting back to you. Try to avoid putting the animals name on the tag as anyone who finds them and wants to keep them will find it easier to bond with your animal.

If you are planning to move a long distance away and your dog or cat suffers from travel sickness or severe anxiety in the car, talk to your vet about medication to make the journey less stressful for them.

Please see below for invaluable advice on moving Dogs, Cats or Fish.

Advice on moving with dogs:

Things to do before the move:

Some dogs may become distressed or anxious during the upheaval of packing, so confine them to a quiet room where they can rest and be safe. The kitchen is often a good place it will be the room the moving team will probably empty last, and where you'll find yourself doing some last minute packing. wellington helpiammoving.coms dog

Leave packing his/her toys, bedding and other equipment to the last moment so that he/she is comforted by the presence of familiar things. Do not wash bedding until a couple of weeks after the move, so that they will have something familiar smelling in the new house.

Speak to your vet about obtaining a DAP (Dog Appeasing Pheromone) plug-in device to use before, during and after moving. The DAP emits a scent into the home which mimics the calming scent released by a mother to her puppies. The DAP will relax your dog and make them able to cope more easily with the changes that come with moving house.

If travelling a long way prevent travel sickness by not feeding them for 12 hours before the journey. If you know your pet suffers from travel sickness, ask your veterinary surgeon about anti-sickness pills.

Things to remember during the move:


If your dog is staying with you during the move then confine him/her to one secure room, so that escape and injury cannot occur whilst people are going in and out of the house. Leave them in a quiet area with familiar unwashed bed and possessions.

Put new tags on.

Make sure that your dog is safely secured in the car or vehicle that they are to be transported in to the new house with a dog guard, travel crate or car harness on the back seat. If it is a long journey, make sure that they get regular toilet and water breaks. Remember the temperature in a parked car can rise rapidly and your pets might die from the heat. Moto Service Stations on motorways have introduced new feeding stations for dogs. Normally in the entrance on the building you will find bowls full of dog biscuits and fresh water. They also have a handy information leaflets on travel tips for your dog.

In the new home:


Check your boundary fencing to make sure that it is secure, of sufficient height and 'hole-free' before letting your dog run free in the garden. If your dog is able to escape then take him out on a lead until you are able to do the necessary improvements.

Try to unpack the essentials before introducing your dog to the new house so that he can see familiar items within the unfamiliar house. If possible place furniture and items in similar places to those in the old house.

Use the DAP in your new home, particularly in the room that your dog spends most of his time in.

If your dog is microchipped, then phone Petlog on 0870 6066751 to get his records changed to your new address.

Be patient with your dog in the new home and make allowances for 'accidents' on the carpet if they should happen. Don't make a fuss, punish your dog or draw his attention to them as this may make the problem worse. Quietly pick up the mess and clean the area with a biological solution, or special cleaner from the vets or pet shop to properly remove the smell. Once your dog has settled in they should stop. Always praise him when he goes to toilet in the correct place (i.e. outside!) so that he knows where to go.

Make sure that you stick to your usual routines, as this will help them to settle, so feed and walk him at the usual times. Don't give him more or less attention than he is used to having from you, this may cause him to become anxious or over dependent on you and lead to behaviour problems.

To help your dog/dogs settle in take them for lots of walks. This ideal to get away from the chaos and a good excuse to get out of all the chores. This will help your dogs get used to their new surroundings.

The Dogs Trust is working towards the day when all dogs can enjoy a happy life, free from the threat of unnecessary destruction.

For more information or advice on this subject or the other welfare and educational work that they do, please telephone, email or write (with an SAE) to:

Dogs trust,
17 Wakley Street,
London,
EC1V 7RQ
Tel : 020 7837 0006
www.dogstrust.org.uk
email: info@dogstrust.org.uk

Registered Charity No. 227523

Advice on moving with cats:

You know only too well how stressful moving house can be - and it's almost as bad for your cat!

Cats are notoriously suspicious of change within their environment - even a newly decorated room, replacement sofa or Christmas tree can cause them unease. So imagine how a house move might affect your feline friend.

But, with some forethought and care and advice from FAB, the UK's leading authority on the health of cats, you can avoid many of the problems and ease the pressure, making your move less stressful for you both.

If your cat is particularly sensitive and it is convenient for you, you may choose to board him at a reputable cattery for a few days over the moving period but this may, of course, be impractical if you are moving from one end of the country to the other.

Before you move


Cats should always be transported in a safe container. Leave the carrier around for a few days or even weeks before your move, so that the cat becomes used to the sight and smell of it.

Moving day


Early in the morning, put the cat in one room with all the doors and windows shut. This will keep him away from the upheaval of packing boxes and furniture moving. It will also save you hours of searching for him when it's time to leave. Provide a litter tray, water and food (but don't feed him just before travelling in case he is ill on the journey). Put a notice on the door to remind family members and the removers that the door should remain shut.

When it's time to go, put your cat in his carrier with a familiar blanket and transport him, properly secured with a seat belt, in the car - either wedged securely in the back or in the well behind the seats. Don't put him in the removal van or the boot of the car.

You may be facing a long journey so remember to offer him water and the use of a litter tray at some point, though he may not be interested in either. When you take a break remember to leave a window open but never leave a cat in a parked car on a hot day as the inside temperature can soar to dangerous heights very quickly. The use of an artificial pheromone such as Feliway (available from your vet) may be useful if your cat is not a good traveller.

On arrival at your new home


Leave the cat in the carrier until you have one room set up to accommodate him. This should contain water, food and a litter tray. When the room is ready (all doors and windows shut and fireplaces blocked) let him out of the carrier. Make sure that you leave him with some familiar bedding and if it is a cold day, a hot water bottle wrapped in a blanket. This should make him feel more secure.
When the removal van has left, the exterior doors are firmly shut and you are ready to collapse in a heap, let your cat out to explore a little. It may be wise to confine this initial exploration to just a couple of rooms so that he is not totally overwhelmed.

Settling in


Some cats walk into a new home, curl up in a favourite chair and never look back. Others take time to adjust to their surroundings but you can help them to settle in.
Cats will rub their heads and bodies on furniture, walls, doors etc to lay down scent from glands which are situated mostly on the head but also over the body. Rubbing their own scent around the house increases their feeling of security. You can help this process by rubbing a soft cotton cloth gently around the cat's face to pick up its personal scent profile. Then dab this, at cat height, around the room(s) where he will initially be exploring. You can repeat this daily and widen the areas where you impose his scent, so before he ventures outside he should feel confident within his own home.
Use food and a regular routine to help during the adjustment period. Small frequent meals will give you more contact initially and help to reassure your cat that all is well. He will relax because he will know what is going to happen and when.
An indoor cat may find settling into a new home more difficult than one which spends time outside, because he will be less used to environmental changes. Such a cat should be introduced to his new home slowly - one room at a time and with plenty of reassurance.

Exploring the neighbourhood


Keep your cat inside for the first two or three weeks to give him time to learn the geography of his new home and to become accustomed to the smells. When you decide the time is right to let him out, withhold food for about 12 hours so he is hungry. If he already associates a particular sound (tapping a bowl or rattling a bag of biscuits) with food so much the better. Choose a quiet time to let him out in the garden, firstly ensuring that there are no other cats about. Go out with him and let him explore for a little while before calling him in for food. Repeat the exercise several times, allowing him to go a little further and for a while longer each time. Cats used to the outdoors generally cope well with a new territory to explore. Timid cats may take a little longer and should be accompanied as often as possible until their confidence builds.
If your cat is spending time outdoors he should be microchipped or have some form of identification - a snap-open collar is probably the safest - bearing his name, your new address and 'phone number. If your cat is microchipped don't forget to inform the registering company of your change of address.

Preventing your cat from returning to his old home


If you are moving just a couple of miles you may find that your cat regularly returns to his old home. This is simply because he has not bonded sufficiently well with his new home and has picked up familiar routes during exploration of his new territory.
Ask the new occupants of your old house and the neighbours there to discourage him by chasing him away or by calling you to collect him. Spread the cat's scent around your home, as described above. Keep your cat inside for a month and then, as mentioned earlier, only let him out for a short period just before you feed him and accompany him on his walk round the garden. In this way he will begin to recognise the new house as a source of food and shelter, both of which are being denied him at the old house.
This period of readjustment may take weeks and, in some cases, it can be months before he can be allowed outside unattended. If all else fails and your cat refuses to accept his new home, you may be able to persuade the residents of your old house or one of the neighbours to adopt him permanently.

But, with patience and a little bit of luck, you and your cat will soon feel like you've never lived anywhere else!

New contacts


When you move house you will be looking for a new doctor and dentist. Don't forget to find a vet too - your cat will need his regular vaccinations, flea and worming medication, but it is also useful to have the number handy in case of emergency.

You may also need to find alternative holiday accommodation for your cat if you have moved away from your favourite cattery. Information on good catteries can be found in the Good Cattery Guide 2005 produced by the Feline Advisory Bureau and available through its head office - 0870 742 2278 or website - www.fabcats.org

The FAB website gives helpful advice and information on all aspects of a cat's health and welfare including solutions to behavioural problems, treatment of diseases, and tips on general care. It also features some great photographs and a quiz.

Advice on moving your Fish

Remember NEVER move fish in their tank. Take the fish out and then take out as much of the water as possible. The tank are rarely built to within stand moving and certainly not with the water still inside, you wouldn't want to lose your fish and have all that water flooding about in the back off your removal van.

Do not feed your fish for at least 24 hours before moving, this will not harm the fish. By doing this you will minimise wastes in the transport container, which could harm the fish especially larger fish which regurgitate food if stressed

Fish should be transported in clean, strong, polythene bags part filled with tank water. You can purchase these from your local pet shop. Make sure you seal the bags leaving a good air pocket above the water. Secure each bag with two strong rubber bands and try to double bag the fish to reduce the chance of leaks.

Gently place the bags into a polystyrene container. These are available from aquatic specialist. Clearly label the containers with their contents and the words "this way up".

Do not forget to keep living plants also bagged up with enough tank water to keep them moist.

Any electrical items such as heaters should be switched off at least 15 minutes before moving this will allow the appliances to cool down and thus prevent cracking. Wrap fragile items i.e. light tubes in paper and remember to label everything for easy access.

Protect your tank by wrapping in bubble wrap or blankets and remember to stand it on a cushioned surface. If possible it is best to transport the tank in the boot of a car rather than the van, you can then keep your eye on it and start to set it up immediately on arrival at the new property.

Remove any filters and transport separately and remember to get it up and running as soon as you reach your destination. With some filters if you store them for too long in static water then the beneficial bacteria within the filter may start to die off.

You need to try and get your fish to their destination as quickly as possible. Be careful of extremes in weather temperature. On a hot day the water will heat up causing the fish to overheat and die. On a cold day the water will cool down to a very low temperature in which fish also cannot survive. Consider buying a battery powered air pump if you are travelling on a long journey or in really warm weather. You will have to use a bucket or other temporary storage container if you do decide to use this option. Make sure the buckets have not been used with anything potentially toxic and rinse them well before use. The movement of the journey will help to aerate the water and agitate the water surface.

Settle your fish into their new home straight away and treat them as if they were new fish, de-chlorinating the water in the tank. Before you place your fish back in their tank ensure both the water in the tank and the water in the bags is at room temperature.

Obviously, the sooner the tank and filter are up and running again, the better - so make this a priority. For the next week or so monitor your fish as they may be stressed and check the water for nitrate and ammonia levels. If you do notice any diseases then a good website to have a look at is Fishdoc which offers advice on fish diseases, diagnosis, treatment, filtration and water quality.

A good idea is Waterzoo who offer a fish boarding service for people who moving house or redecorating. All you have to do is arrange to bring your fish or marine invertebrates in well in advance, preferably on a weekend. Your livestock will be housed in their own aquarium, fed three time daily, and cared for by their knowledgeable staff. www.waterzoo.co.uk

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